Quick answer: To sew spandex, use a ballpoint or stretch needle, a stretch stitch (narrow zigzag, a serger/overlock, or a lightning-bolt stitch), and don’t stretch the fabric as you feed it. This prevents skipped stitches, popped seams and wavy edges. (New to the terms? See our spandex glossary.)

Needles

Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 75/11 or 90/14). Its rounded tip slips between knit loops instead of piercing and cutting them, which avoids skipped stitches and holes.

Stitches

A regular straight stitch will pop when the seam stretches. Use a narrow zigzag, a serger/overlock, or your machine’s lightning-bolt (stretch) stitch. A twin needle gives a professional stretchy hem.

Handling the fabric

Don’t pull or stretch the fabric through the machine — let the feed dogs move it. Use plenty of pins or clips, and a walking foot helps feed slippery knits evenly. Cut with the stretch direction going around the body.

Avoiding common problems

Skipped stitches: switch to a fresh ballpoint/stretch needle. Wavy seams: reduce presser-foot pressure and don’t stretch while sewing. Popped seams: use a stretch stitch, not a straight stitch.

Adding sequins or sparkle

Working with embellished fabric? Sequins need a different approach — a denim needle for sequin fabric, or a beading needle and the seed-bead trick for loose sequins. See our full guide on how to sew sequins onto fabric.

Practice first

Test on a scrap of the same fabric. Order a sample of your chosen milliskin or metallic spandex before cutting into your main yardage.

What needle and stitch should I use for spandex?

Use a ballpoint or stretch needle and a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch so seams flex without popping.

How do I stop wavy or skipped stitches?

Reduce presser-foot pressure, use a walking foot, and avoid stretching the fabric as you feed it.

Where can I buy spandex to sew with?

Stretch House sells spandex by the yard with free samples so you can test-sew first, plus worldwide shipping from New York since 2004.